It is barbunya
beans season, again! These delicious nutty beans with red or dark purple speckles packed
with a long list of health benefits (google it!) are also called borlotti,
cranberry, roman (not the Italian green ones), or October beans. In Turkey
these reddish delicious beans are named after yet another red deliciousness:
the Mediterranean red mullet, aka barbunya, from the Greek barbounia.
Barbunya beans arrive at the
farmer's markets in Turkey in midsummer, in pods, and when they do arrive they
immediately become the most expensive item on the carts. Since people wait for
their arrival for so long, at the time of their arrival they’re ready to pay
whatever—it’s definitely a seller’s market. By the end of the summer and end of
the barbunya season, however, barbunya stocks start to go down and barbunya lovers
invest in kilos and kilos of barbunyas. They pod them and keep them in the
freezer for the long barbunya deprived winter. Although you can find dry
barbunyas year around, fresh barbunyas are always, and I cannot emphasize this
enough, always preferred to dried ones.
Barbunyas are always cooked the same way in Turkish cuisine, i.e.
vegetarian, in generous amount of olive oil with tomatoes. Cooked in any other
way, it’s considered a pity, a total waste. “The” barbunya dish, the Istanbul
style, is called barbunya pilaki. The word pilaki also comes from
Greek (remember “gigantes plaki”?) and in its Turkish form, the word is a generic name for a dish of vegetables or
seafood slowly braised with onion, garlic, and tomatoes in olive oil and served
cold or at room temperature. However, although there are scrumptious seafood
pilakis, the name in time happened to be associated only with bean pilakis,
cannellini and barbunya, to be specific. This is my recipe for barbunya pilaki.
Barbunya pilaki
is traditionally made with potatoes and carrots; however, I really do not like
potatoes in this dish; I strongly believe that potatoes cloud the flavor of
barbunyas. I replace potatoes for green sweet peppers, or in their absence,
with sweat Italian peppers.
I usually cook
barbunyas in pressure cooker, since it’s faster. You can use this recipe with
regular or instant pots as well.
serves ~4
2 lb of fresh
barbunyas in pod, pod them. Sometimes when they are very fresh, the pods are firm and hard to pod. If that's the case, leave them in a fabric bag for a day or two to breathe and loosen up.
1 medium onion,
finely diced
3 cloves of
garlic, finely chopped or thinly sliced
1 potato, peeled
and diced
OR, if you want
to try my version 3-4 sweet green peppers, chopped in small pieces
1 carrot, cut in
half or quarter moons
2 big tomatoes,
grated or crushed in a food processor
1/3 cup olive
oil, for starters and if you’re ready for it add a heaping tbsp more (we do
believe in olive oil)
1 tbsp tomato
paste (optional)
1 cup hot water
1 tsp sugar
2 tsp or more
salt
-Pod all the
beans. Your 2 lb fresh barbunya beans will diminish to ~1 lb once podded. They
might come in different sizes and colors, all fine. Don’t be alarmed; they will
loose their bright colors and turn brownish once cooked. Still, all good.
-Add olive oil
in your pot and once warmed up add onions. Cook for 4-5 minutes on medium to
high heat until softened.
-Add sugar,
garlic, peppers or potatoes, and carrots, and cook for 2-3 minutes.
-If you think
your tomatoes won’t give a vibrant red color, which happens a lot, you can use
tomato paste. If so, add it now and cook for a minute.
-Add barbunyas
and tomatoes, and stir for a minute or two.
-Add water and
salt.
-If you’re using
a pressure cooker, cover and cook on low after the steam comes out for 16-18
minutes. (I have a young clientele who like soft food, so I go for 18 minutes).
If you’re using a regular pot, cover and simmer for 30-35 minutes on low until
beans are cooked. Check now and then to make sure it doesn’t run out of water.
If it does, boil some water before adding more.
-Once it is
cooked, let it cool down to room temperature in its pot with the lid on.
Barbunya pilaki
is a traditional olive oil dish and like all olive oil dishes it is served at
room temperature or cold, with lemon slices. A splash of lemon juice brightens up barbunyas in unimaginable ways. Serve with grilled meat, with rice on the side or
with crusty bread. It’ll keep in the fridge for a week.
How long would you cook in a pressure cooker with dried beans? I cant get fresh where I live.
ReplyDeleteSomething 15-20 minutes would do the trick
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